Please excuse the hat but it does help keep the sun off. I'm Laurence and have 30 years experience in gardening. I am married with two children and enjoy an outdoor lifestyle. If the neighbours inform you they caught me washing my favourite tree in my garden (Himalayan Birch The white one in the photos below) Don't believe them! I am of course fully insured and just as happy with a hoe as large petrol Stihl hedge cutter in my hands.
I pay special attention to the details of every project to ensure the complete satisfaction of each client. My goal is to enhance the exterior of your home, giving you an environment that you and your garden wildlife will be proud to call home.
Your satisfaction is my priority and I strive to provide a service that I am proud of. I start every project by providing a thorough consultation to understand your goals and the needs of all projects. I do this to guarantee that the project is completed according to your preferences.
LHS Garden Services maintenance can be as regular as is required. (Usually bi-weekly but can be weekly)
I usually spread the maintenance over 12 months so that it reduces your costs per month and I can concentrate on some of the clean up tasks through the winter months with certain pruning, trimming, winter bed clearance, some perennial splitting and keeping the winter lawn and other areas tidy. This can also include professional jet washing.
I also offer part maintenance services if you prefer to carry out some of the tasks yourself.
To help sell your property or you could have just moved in and want some help to get it straight. Maybe you own properties and want to make sure it is ready for your new tenants I can visit you for a free evaluation and come up with an quote to whip it back into shape. This may include: Weeding, edgings, pruning, hedge and shrub trimming, mowing and general tidy ups. Then you or your tenant will want to take over or we can discuss full or part maintenance as you wish.
Overtime, any exterior surface exposed to the elements can deteriorate and growth such as weeds, moss and algae can soon flourish across the surface, causing it to look dirty and in the need of attention. Using professional equipment I can bring the above back to its former glory.
All block paving will be re-sanded using only Kiln dried sand. Re-sanding must take place when totally dry. All other treatments can be discussed.
Large and small, I mow them all
I offer a professional and reliable grass cutting service in Bedford and surrounding villages.
Using a Hayter machine with a split roller. This protects your lawn when turning at the edges. A regular mowing of your grass keeps your garden looking its best.
Never scalp your lawns and cut the grass to short.
Free stripes of course.
All lawns are trimmed around difficult areas, edged every time and blown tidy around the edge before mowing takes place.
The two main seasons in the year to scarify are spring and autumn.
Scarifying is a process that removes large quantities of dead organic matter in the form of grass clippings and dead moss and even the healthiest of lawn benefit from being scarified. This organic matter will very quickly form a dense layer on the surface of the soil, and is known as thatch. The most effective way to dethatch a lawn is with a scarifier.
Once the lawn has been scarified it is advisable to over seed the lawn.
Aeration is the process of inserting small holes in the ground with the aim of providing air circulation along with better water and nutrient consumptions for the roots of the grass.
The reason it is necessary to aerate your lawn is that some soil is naturally very compact.
Lawns with hard or clay soil should be aerated once a year
Once your lawn aeration is complete you should have fertilizer and top dressing applied to give your grass the extra ingredients it needs to thrive
The principal ingredients of good lawn fertilisers are a combination of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). But what do they actually do?
Nitrogen helps to promote sturdy plants, giving strong shoots and leaves and dense growth which helps to reduce competition from weeds
Phosphorus helps the grass to establish and grow strong root systems.
Potassium reduces the impact of stress on the plant by giving it resistance to drought, disease, wear and tear and cold weather.
Much like me!
The trouble with hedges, much like me, is that they suffer from middle-age spread. What begins well enough as a boundary four feet high and 15 inches wide grows a fraction higher and wider each season, since you clip only the soft, young growth, leaving the older, twiggier bits building up behind them.
Before long the hedge is too big to cut without standing on steps; it’s creating shade as well as occupying valuable garden space, and you need to do something drastic.
The best time of all to cut a mature hedge back hard is the start of the growing season, around late March or mid April. But that’s a busy time in the garden so most professional gardeners do any major hedge cut-backs during the winter, when there’s a natural gap in their work schedule.
Not all hedging plants can withstand a major cut-back. I never attempt it with conifers, not even leylandii, as they’ll look awful when the inner stems are exposed. The prime candidates to trim in the spring are formal hedges of yew, privet, Lonicera nitida, beech and hornbeam. If you have overgrown holly, cotoneaster, pyracantha or escallonia hedges I would treat them to a hard cut-back in spring
When the flower blooms, the bees come uninvited.
Owning and maintaining a beautiful garden takes a great deal of time and effort. If you don’t have the time to devote to this, let me do it for you.
Planting bulbs and summer bedding
Cleaning out the weeds, leaves and twigs.
Removing dead flowers and branches to boost plant health.
Trimming to encourage plant health and flowering.
Mulching to prevent stress from weather and discourage weed growth.
Winter cleanups and splitting overgrown perennials and grasses
Give vegetables the sunniest spot you have. Sunshine makes for stocky, disease-resistant plants and sweeter flavoured onions, carrots, tomatoes and chillies. If you need shade, for salads or strawberries, it’s easy to create some with netting or a wattle fence.
Most ordinary garden soils are fine for veg growing, but avoid extremes. If your soil is thin – less than a spit deep (the length of your spade’s blade), or full of stones that cause your carrots to kink, It means raised beds or pots.
Give a lot, expect a lot, and if you don't get it, prune.
Pruning is an essential gardening skill. When you prune correctly, you encourage healthy growth and flowering (in the case of flowering plants), as well as good looks. For most shrubs and trees, it helps to prune at the right time. Some are best pruned in winter; some right after flowering.
When it comes to shrubs, you just can’t beat cane-growing types like sweet-scented mock oranges
(Philadelphusspp. and cvs.) or most viburnums
(Viburnum spp. and cvs.) for seasonal interest and robust form in the landscape. Spouting from the ground like water from a majestic fountain, these multistemmed woody plants have a beautiful, natural, free-flowing habit. They’re easy to grow, and they usually achieve their mature size in three years.
In late winter, prune the long shoots that have grown since the summer pruning down to three to five buds. Also remove any of last season’s unwanted long shoots, which will be more apparent now because the leafless framework will be exposed. In summer after the vines have flowered. prune this years growth long shoots back to 6 inches Also at this time, completely remove any shoots not needed for the main framework
The majority of roses are pruned between late Feb and March
You can't tar all rose varieties with the same bush though. Different types of rose will need to be pruned at different times of the year and in slightly different ways.
Climbers are happy with a late autumn and/or early winter pruning to keep them neat and tidy and flowering well. Whereas ramblers prefer pruning in late summer after their flowers have died out.
Group 1 vines flower in spring, on growth from the previous year.
Prune these vines right after they finish blooming in spring. The new stems that grow will then have enough time to make flower buds for the following year.
How much to remove when pruning depends on the vine’s vigor and how large a support you’ve provided for it.
Lightly thin out and disentangle stems before growth begins in late winter or early spring, and then go over the plant again after the earliest flowers fade in late spring or early summer, severely shortening the stems that bore those flowers. If the plant tends to bloom more heavily later rather than earlier in the season, you can be more heavy-handed when thinning stems before growth begins in early spring.
These are the easiest vines to prune. Just before the season’s growth begins, or as it is beginning, lop all stems back to strong buds within a foot or so of the ground.
However, there is no need to cut a late-blooming clematis back so severely if you are going to let it ramble up into a tree where you want its blossoms held high.
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